Tales from an Obruni, chapter 2

We woke up in Sirigu underneath mosqito netting and to the brightly painted walls of the huts that have been built for those who are interested in this community's work. After a breakfast, where in addition to bread and eggs we were given a sample of the local millet beer (!). Madeline and I took a clay workshop with two of the women of the village. The pots that we made were created out of clay dug from a local river mixed with dried ground pre-fired clay (grog to you and me) and we helped knead and wedge the clay. Once we were done preparing the clay body, we were taught how to "throw" the pot by hand, creating a base and then slowly building up the sides using even pressure from both hands simultaneously while turning it. Yes, they made it look easy, but we were game. After the pot was created, it is smoothed with a small amount of water and paper. The clay gets leather hard and then is worked into again, either burnished or enscribed, and then pit fired.

The folks in the community also shared with us their house painting techniques and there was a lot of painting going on! Our guide shared many of the northern traditions with us, including facial scarification (everyone had) and facial tattoos (only a few had). He said that some older norther Ghanaians tattooed their faces in order to identify themselves as northerners and therefore innocent in tribal wars taking place a few decades ago. I want to thank the community of SWOPA for our visit and for teaching us about their culture and demonstrating that art can work to sustain a community.

After a visit to the sacred crocodiles in Paga on the border of Burkina Faso, we stayed in a hotel in Bolgatanga that had no internet, but did have...Disney Channel. Someone was very happy.